The following day we got up early for our appointment to see the church of St. Polycarp.
Then on the road again, this time to Sardis, capital of the ancient Lydian Empire, with its huge Temple of Artemis (the Greek equivalent of Diana, twin sister of Apollo),
and the tiny attached Cristian basilica.
Nearby is the classic Roman gymnasium, beautifully restored by students from Princeton.
We were then taken to the charming Hotel Kismet in Kusadasi overlooking the Aegean, in which we swam the following day.